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On 1 May 1997, 27-year-old Londoner Andrew Terrill began a 7,000-mile walk from the south of Italy to the northernmost tip of Norway. The aim of his walk was to raise £100,000 for homeless people in England's capital. Here he reports on his experiences at the start of his adventures.
WHEN I stood on a deserted beach at the southern tip of Italy on 1 May, I didn't know quite what to expect. Perhaps that was just as well. If I had known, I might never have left that pleasant Mediterranean beach. As I walked north into the foothills of the Apennines, it seemed impossible that I would ever reach my final destination, North Cape at the top of Norway. I was both excited and nervous. My 35-kilo rucksack contained food for up to seven days. It also held my home - a small lightweight tent - and everything else I needed for wilderness travel.
The Apennines were certainly a challenge. The mountains were covered in dense forest, and there were few footpaths. The maps were wonderfully imaginative. Valleys, mountains r and lakes were marked, but didn't exist. Those that did exist often weren't marked. As a result, I was frequently lost - once for two and a half days. It wasn't a very promising start. The wildlife kept me on my toes. There were many evil-looking snakes, a million lizards, deer and wild bear. Wolves were said to be hidden away in the deepest forests.
Walking in the southern Apennines was very tough. It was also fascinating, with ramshackle mountain villages along the way. The locals were friendly and helpful. It was great to be out in the hills with the freedom to travel and live life at my own slow pace.
It was also very hard, though. In May and June, the temperatures reached the mid-thirties, and there was little water. I finished each day bathed in sweat. I was footsore and exhausted. I rarely had a chance to recover. Mosquitoes and barking dogs kept me awake at night, as did the heat. I felt like a tramp, and I looked like one, too.
Sometimes, in great need of a shower and a chance to relax, I tried hotels. On many frustrating occasions, empty-looking hotels suddenly became full when I arrived. At times, in the southern Apennines, I wasn't at all happy.